Bonnetts was a chance find, just off the waterside in St. Ives. It looks harmless enough from the
outside, twinned - by way of disguise - with a family baker. This is a common theme of many tea
rooms, which appear to be facing somewhat of an identity crisis, trying to cater to as many
different markets as possible while mastering none.
What we would define as a "tearoom" varies considerably and we try to judge each establishment
on its own merits, but if somewhere is so provocative as to call itself such, they are opening
themselves up to tremendous scrutiny.
As a baker, we have no truck with Bonnetts, but to merit their title of tearoom they'll have to try a