020 7437 6007
Maison Bertaux c'est vraiment une Diva! Posing on the corner of
Greek Street, dressed up to the nines in an unusual wardrobe of
fluffy pink and blue gingham, it solicits a diverse range of customers
from all over Soho. We sat outside in the rain next to a beret-sporting
Frenchman and a poorly-disguised transvestite while gorging
ourselves on beautiful, priceless French tarts. Inside there's a lot of
gauze drapes, mirrors, crystals, improbably proportioned
champagne effects and a purely decorative piano, propping up a
mountain of what Amos likes to think were explicit lithographs.
Lavishly expensive. Hopelessly indulgent. It gains points for its
wonderful food and uncompromising campness. It loses out because
for that sort of money there are more exciting things to do in Soho.